A land of lakes and streams, forests and wildlife, the Continental Divide and the Colorado River – meet Grand County, Colorado.
A bit of backstory: While I’ve visited several of the Centennial State’s settings over the years, one missed has been Grand County . . . until recently. Then it changed.
After landing at DIA (Denver International Airport), directions were basic – head west to US-40, proceed across the Continental Divide and continue toward Rocky Mountain National Park through such towns as Winter Park and Granby before traveling north on US-34 to the community of Grand Lake.
Said to “owe its very existence to the rugged beauty of the Rocky Mountains,” Grand Lake was an old resort town with a rich history of trailblazing settlers and outdoor adventurers. Today’s vacation getaway showcased these beginnings with its pioneer museum, frequent in-town wildlife sightings, a wooden boardwalk flanked by rustic back-in-the-day clapboard building storefronts and an aquatic life centered around the town lake.
Visually alluring, a stroll along Grand Avenue was past park benches, overflowing flower baskets in season and flying US flags amid a collection of art galleries, one-of-a-kind boutiques and antique shops. Interspersed were F&B opportunities ranging from old-fashioned ice cream parlors, candy stores and coffee houses to ethnic restaurants and downhome-style cafes. All underscored Grand Lake’s recognition as one of North America’s best lake towns.
Within a short walk from Grand Avenue, the town’s ‘main’ street, was its eponymous body of water. Noted as Colorado’s largest and deepest natural lake (covering more than 500 acres and having a depth up to 400 feet), this geographic magnet was flanked by Lakeshore Park – its small beach, an assortment of picnic tables, a dock enhanced with scattered seating and access to the many activities associated with water.
Upping the ante was the town’s range of eclectic dining possibilities. Sagebrush BBQ & Grill, situated within the former County Courthouse and surrounded by Western decor, was known for its hardy selections and wide variety of tap beers. Decorated in bright primary colors, the atmosphere of One Love Rum Kitchen was as fun as its menu – from its signature drink Pain Killer (said to be the “cocktail cousin to the pina colada”) to the coconut rum chicken entrée. But the most unexpected discovery was found on the banks of the Tonahutu River and reached after walking through the parking lot of the town's old-time, motel-style accommodations, Rapids Lodge & Restaurant, established in 1915. An intimate, rustic-style riverside restaurant, its mango flounder with mango beurre blanc sauce was my trip’s top fav entrée. And an early-morning, quick pop-in at Blue Water Bakery Café should be mandatory, for its homemade pastries alone.
Retail therapy opportunities were plentiful. Stores were reflective of their environs with tributes of all kinds to bear, moose and the Rockies and geared to a fashionably-Colorado lifestyle. Among personal standouts were Mountain Gal, self-described “a mountain chic boutique,” and Altitude, a jewelry store that featured the handcrafted work of artist/owner Rachel Rayburn.
I didn’t anticipate top-quality live entertainment in this town of less than 500 residents. Yet, its professional summer musical playhouse (late May to mid-September) – Rocky Mountain Repertory Theater – long ago established a reputation of “bringing some of Broadway’s biggest hits to Grand Avenue” by offering summer residencies to some of the theater world’s best and brightest up-and-coming stage actors. My selection, “Almost Heaven,” a musical inspired by native-son John Denver, reinforced these accolades.
The destination’s biggest lure, Rocky Mountain National Park, had long been the number-one attraction of its western gateway, Grand County – drawing three million visitors a year. Founded in 1915, this noted wilderness reserve’s history was storied as its land was acquired by the United States in 1803 with the Louisiana Purchase. At 7,522 feet, it represented the country’s highest-in-elevation national park and featured more than 300 miles of hiking trails, including a 30-mile portion of the 3,100-mile Canada-to-Mexico Continental Divide Scenic Trail. Uniquely connected to the Continental Divide, this county was home to more than 100 miles of the trail, which passed through the town and served up many access points.
To best experience the Park, however, it would be a mistake not to participate in one of its many ranger-led activities. Fire Ecology Walk gave professional insight into the region’s devastating 2020 East Troublesome Fire, including a moderate walk through a burned area and insight into how fire interacts with the Rockies’ landscape. Elk Echoes – a fall favorite featured when elk bugle – imparted the basics of their mating season and how to stay safe while viewing the unpredictable animals. And West Side Fishing was both informational and hands-on (best part: no need to bring fishing gear; it was provided).
Here, wildlife was abundant and active; and for sighting tips culled from my visit, keep reading. Elk could be seen year-round, especially in the meadows; moose were often spotted along the Colorado River in the Kawuneeche Valley; bighorn sheep were many times found along US-34 and high on Trail Ridge Road from May to mid-August and it wasn’t uncommon for bears to unexpectedly meander through town.
But to best experience Grand County, the key was to hike. With opportunities for all – from master mountaineers to first-time trekkers – my initial outing perfectly matched my skills as a casual hiker. With its trailhead near town, East Inlet Trail was as convenient as it was photogenic. Complete with peaceful meadows, granite boulders and serene lakes, it was less than a mile into the hike before reaching its most noted reward – Adams Falls. And in pursuit of the 1,450-mile Colorado River’s modest headwaters was Coyote Valley Trail, a one-mile round-trip loop of no elevation in Kawuneeche Valley.
Though open seasonally (this year beginning May 23, 2024), Grand Lake Lodge – a rustic Rocky Mountain resort overlooking the lake – was an unbeatable choice of lodging. A community icon since 1920 and recognized as a National Historic Landmark, history was like surround-sound. Originally within the boundaries of the park, it now sat within walking distance of it. Sitting at an elevation of 8,769 feet, its views represented some of the region’s best. Called “Colorado’s favorite front porch,” Deer Deck – featuring a circular fireplace and an oversized sundeck overlooking the lake and town – was, in itself, a top visitor attraction. Additionally complemented by its assortment of cozy, individual cabins and the main lodge’s Huntington House Tavern restaurant and beckoning bar – the resort ticked all the boxes of a must-visit resort.
While once again retracing my steps to DIA, along US-40 and over the Continental Divide, it was a bit of a twist of John Denver’s “Rocky Mountain High” lyrics heard during the previous evening’s musical performance that succinctly summated my introduction to Colorado’s Grand County:
Coming home to a place I’d never been before.
For information, go to www.gograndlake.com.
